Türkiye .. Part 2 Cappadocia..

Türkiye as a destination is many things …rolled into one… an intricate tapestry of beautiful terrain, monuments, history of different religions as well as ideology and now as a strong independant nation with a growing economy. As a visitor perhaps a best place to enjoy the sense of Europe with eastern sensibilities … not a minor feat in this age of exclusivity…. Time constraints allowed us only one other location in Türkiye besides Istanbul ….and there was complete consensus on .. ‘Cappadocia’…

Cappadocia, is an ancient district in east-central Anatolia, situated on the rugged plateau north of the Taurus Mountains, in the centre of present-day Turkey, a short flight from Istanbul. Cappadocia’s landscape includes dramatic expanses of soft volcanic rock, shaped by erosion into towers, cones, valleys, and caves. Rock-cut churches and underground tunnel complexes from the Byzantine and Islamic eras are scattered throughout the countryside. The unique terrain created by volcanic activity has resulted in caves, mushroom chimneys and creation of multiple underground spaces where people lived during strife.. an astonishing 35 or so underground cities. An absolute wonder and recognised by UNESCO as one of the heritage cities of the world.. The caves are present day living spaces, perhaps one of the few in the world… The other speciality of this city is the ‘Hot Air Balloons’..100’s of which rise everyday twice a day weather permitting to create a setting and sight unparalleled in the world. Its vast plateau along with its terrain is perfect for this adventure activity… Cappadocia is an hours flight from Istanbul and it has a small airport at Nevshir not very far from its main city Goreme. Goreme is also part of the Goreme National Park which boasts of the mushroom chimney formations.. So off we go to what should be the most interesting part of this trip…

The heritage landscape..!

Hot air Balloons among the ..landscape!

Street in Gerome..!

A small trek along the river.. to an old 12 th century church..

We stayed in a small family run cave hotel … few rooms with a terrace which had the view of mushroom chimneys and the early morning view of hot air balloons taking of…. Most of these establishments have that facility. Large comfortable rooms within the caves but because of the structure, not many rooms but some with a usable courtyard. The first day was basically to discover the topography and the lay of the land and to discover the surroundings..

The second day was the highlight starting with our Hot Air Balloon flight … starting early morning at 5 am though the actual flight was at 7 am… It’s a group flight and we booked the one with four baskets with 5 people each.. We can have more people in some of the larger baskets..They pick u up, take u to the flight venue… load u in the designated baskets… and then allow u to enjoy a most fascinating ride among or over the clouds. The pilot also descends and takes the balloon right next to the famed mushroom chimneys allowing you to experience the terrain in close quarters plus the exhilaration of flying .. and not in cockpits or enclosed.. to say the experience in one word… ‘Wow!!’ After landing they give you something to eat as well as drink, a customary photograph ….and a certificate! This is virtually a total of 4 hours or so from the time they pick u and drop u back to the Hotel … in time for breakfast with a whole day still left for other … sightseeing. Most of the the hotels serve a full Turkish breakfast along with unlimited turkish tea. We took a half day private tour thereafter which took us around the Goreme National Park … to capital city of the region Utchisar … where the cave palace is there and then to the Underground city a few miles away. The Underground city is a merange of interconnected caves a few meters down, a lot of historical importance but a little underwhelming ( at least for me)… However if u suffer from claustrophobia then not a place to be.. However the best part of the tour was a visit to a place … to visit a 12 th century church, a short trek along the canal/river at a little height. Its base also had some decent restaurants on the canal/river where we could enjoy a meal before the trek…

The Hot Air Balloon ride and the sightseeing tour thereafter was wonderful but tiring… Time in the evening was to explore the Gerome town, rest in the beautiful surroundings of the cave hotel and then… go for a lovely meal in one of the terrace restaurants for dinner. Some of the larger establishments turn their terraces into viewing galleries for the balloon flight and to roof top restaurants at night … Since it was a little cold… a full bonfire is an added bonus is also part of the experience . ‘Setan’ in Hotel Sultan Cave Suites was one such rooftop bar with turkish cuisine.. but one cannot miss the only chinese cuisine restaurant in Gerome- ‘One China’. It’s Michelin quality modern chinese cuisine… perhaps better than many big cities… we had lunch there on the first day as part of our discovery. The town however is small with very few shops .. and basic!

Cappadocia does not require more than a couple of days..We were back to Istanbul the next day for our onward journey back. Türkiye, however, does not end with these two places but has many more… from pretty towns to historical places and to beaches… but perhaps another time .. hopefully soon! If u are visiting Türkiye then please do not exclude ‘Cappadocia’.. it’s outstanding ! Have a good weekend and happy reading….

Free will…and Choices not necessarily in sequence!

The finite runway of life..!

Among the many things that one cannot control..time, perhaps is the most valuable, for…its not coming back again. The realisation however starts to become more apparent as one grows in years for by that time one fact seems a certainty that there is a finite limit to human span of life in this world. What seemed to be an eternally long runway at the start.. to dream,discover,learn, experiment, engage, create what one considers a profile as well legacy for oneself….seems not enough for our ever evolving thoughts and our eventual destination.. This realisation is not new but always surfaces whenever one sits down to self reflect. Self reflection more often than not..always brings up our actions of the past. Our steps or missteps in tackling what life throws at us, our learnings, our perceived failures or what we thought were successes, our desires fulfilled or not …and more importantly our list still to be fulfilled with the ever ticking time pressure. Not a happy afternoon topic … when one just could be reflecting on one’s recent travel destination …or the one still on your pending list. However…good to delve on this for a while since our thoughts presently dictate so…

If one looks at the Wikipedia definition of time then- ‘Time is the continued sequence of existence and events that occurs in an apparently irreversible succession from the past, through the present, and into the future’. It is the measurement used for comparison both in material reality or in conscious experience. In short it is ever present but reflects a different level of material or conscious reality for every time period in its everchanging avatar. Self reflection at any point gives us a view to our past actions or choices which we all know are irreversible and perhaps indicative of the future which is yet to unfold. So whether we like it or not it really is a refrendum about the ‘Choices’ we have made in life. We call them choices but were they really so..? Many of the choices and the resultant actions come predetermined…for instance, nervous system autonomously regulates all the major processes taking place in your body, your brain operates by laws of physics and chemistry which are fixed, your genes are fixed at birth and cannot be changed and finally the results of one’s karma which will surface sometime.So..is this what we call ‘Choice’? Choice is usually when we have a free will to choose…which is seemingly absent if all actions done were pre decided or pre programmed!

This afternoon is turning out better than I had imagined for there are some quick realisations for its not the runway of ‘time’ which we are running short of but rather its our ability to choose the right subject matter as well as the timing…for the choices have already been made for us. We realise that we just have to live those choices that were made for us…either as part of our habits, our beliefs,old conditioning or our routine or past behaviour or as a result of our Karma and some of these reflect in what we now realize is unconscious behaviour and unconscious living. Where then is… ‘Free Will’..? A difficult question with no easy answers. Everything though does not have to be seen in the prism of absolutes like right or wrong, pleasure or pain or light vs dark for it is mind made and opposites too can coexist just like the duality we exist in as per Vedanta philosophy. Deepak Chopra (a renowned writer of life philosophy) article writes that Free Will…. ‘it becomes real when we take steps to undo our unconscious behaviour’.The only step required for that is to ‘stop,pause,and hang loose’. So even if there is no ability for physical choice, a Stop and a Pause creates the beginnings of a choice to stop a behaviour which is not working..and hang loose allows for considering new options for a fresh response to replace the automatic reflex one would have given based on what one is conditioned to… Free will is therefore more connected to our conscious choice of resultant behaviour on the choices already decided and given to us..

These thoughts have somehow fallen into place as the self reflection session progressed. As I said earlier it’s not the time that one needs to fear, but rather the clear understanding of the thoughts for an appropriate behavioural response ….to quote the article once again – ‘Human behaviour exists in a fog and the important thing is to dissipate the fog, not stumble forward as best as we can which is what everybody does..’ Hope you find this an interesting take on some difficult concepts.

Will be back to the travel section again in the next instalment…but till then enjoy reading this ..though I admit it’s a little complex.

With travel increasingly being on everybody’s mind and now it being a year long preference, one usually is looking for ideas and places to experience. Both domestic as well international destinations are in demand … with various levels of difficulty of access as well as cost. International destinations which were quite the favourite before Covid, the travel virtually stalled for sometime with restrictions on travel and visa’s. Good news is that its opened again though Visa’s specially for countries in the Western hemisphere specially for Schengen visa countries remains difficult, time consuming and expensive…, not a pleasant experience many times. Therefore when we were looking for family holiday we identified ‘Türkiye’… a country with a lovely blend between Europe and Asia, good weather, a simplified Visa process if one has a valid US visa and it is well connected from India with direct flight both by Turkish Air as well as Indigo.. Choice therefore was easy ..perhaps ideal

Turkey,officially the Republic of Türkiye (Turkish: Türkiye Cumhuriyeti )is a country mainly in Anatolia in West Asia, with a smaller part called East Thrace in Southeast Europe. It borders the Black Sea to the north; Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Iran to the east; Iraq, Syria, and the Mediterranean Sea (and Cyprus) to the south; and the Aegean Sea, Greece, and Bulgaria to the west. A little bit of history is worth mentioning here… three key influences ie the Roman Christian period followed by the Byzantine period, the Ottoman Empire and now an independent state governed as a parliamentary republic under a secular constitution. It has had its share of problems but has and continues to survive and grow. Much more to discuss about the rich history but as we go along ….

As a country it is large land mass and one does need time to explore the country.. with air travel within being the most likely and time economical way for a short trip. While the choice of places is huge we chose only Istanbul … the largest and best known city and Cappedocia as the only two locations for the current trip. So off we were to Istanbul….on an Indigo Flight, at a rather unearthly time of 4.30 early morning for which we had to be at the airport at 2 am. The flight though was comfortable and on time. We landed at 11.30 Turkish time and the visa process as well as the immigration was relatively hassle free and quick.. a far cry from the rigour as well as document responsibilities for other European locations.. Istanbul is the largest city in Türkiye and it straddles the Bosporus Strait lying in both Europe and Asia. An ancient city with a rich history of Roman/Christian era, the cradle of orthodox Christianity, capital during the Byzantine rule and the Ottoman Empire and now an important city in modern Türkiye, not to forget it has been the ‘Spy’ capital of the world. Since there is so much to take in….we chose to be in centre of the city.. an Airbnb right in Biyoglu next to Kabbatas tram station facing the Bosporus next to the Galata cruise terminal. Both parts of the city the European side and the Asian side accessible by a short walk or taxi or tram …

View from apartment

The Bosporus….!

Istanbul stay was a total of four day in two parts two days at the start and the balance two on the way back… Istanbul as a destination for a family holiday has everything….history, lovely eating places both traditional as well as mediterranean, super shopping, lovely views of the Bosporus as well as the promenade alongside and ofcourse we were blessed by lovely weather in November… though it does get hot in summer. So the first part of the trip was the historical side of the city…a city with two different worlds,the Asian world and the European world separated by a bridge but they remarkably blend into one.. There is much to see on the historical side .. but due to time constraints if one had to choose, I would choose the following … must see sights… The Sophia Hagia mosque, the Blue Mosque, the Galata Tower, 4th century Basilca Cistern and the Grand Bazar( an ancient market place with almost 4000 shops). All are located in the Sultanmet area … best explored by a ride on the tram and walk through lovely streets in that area. These places… draw substantial crowds and pre booking with a guide is advisable and even then it can take a couple of days to explore and see them properly…

The Blue Mosque is without a doubt one of the most famous mosques in the world. This mosque was constructed in the 1600s under the rule of Ahmad I. This mosque is actually different from any other mosque in Istanbul because it is the only mosque which has six minarets! It’s a UNESCO heritage site. The Hagia Sophia which is next door is the other famous historical monument . The Hagia Sophia was built in AD 537 and is known for its huge white dome. The Hagia Sophia was originally a Greek Orthodox Christian cathedral which was then taken over by the Ottoman sultans and converted into an imperial mosque, then as a museum and now both a mosque and a museum.The Hagia Sophia is probably one of the most famous mosque/museums in the world and one of the most visited historical places in Istanbul. The ancient Basilca Cistern, an underground tank for supplying water during the Ottoman Empire is nearby and a sight not to be missed. One can also walk to The Grand Bazaar which one of the largest, most famous, and most visited markets in all of Istanbul boasting of multiple streets and almost 4000 shops selling turkish authentic artifacts including durries, carpets, pottery and … also tea/ spices.

These can be done in a single day since it’s on one side of the city. The only other site of importance is the Galata Tower which is on the opposite side which needs to be done separately.The Galata Tower is a medieval stone tower which is commonly known as the Christea Turris or the Tower of Christ. Galata Tower is a Romanesque-style tower that was originally built in 1348. The streets around the same are worth visiting and the views from the top of the Bosporus and the city are outstanding.. The famous Cheesecake shop is located here…

Hagia Sofia!

Blue mosque…!

Hagia Sofia..!

The ultimate view…!

Grand Bazar…!

A city is made enjoyable not only by the sights but also by the culinary scene, the nightlife and ofcourse the shopping … some traditional and some international brands..Takshim square is the heart of the modern city of Istanbul where most of the shopping and eateries are located.. It along with connected Istikal street houses local turkish and international brands and is … the place to hangout in Istanbul. It’s always live and buzzing…. If however you are not into restaurants and shopping then the areas along the Bosporus… a long promenade good both for running and walking is the ideal relaxation point for the city. The cruise on the Bosporus is recommended too… as it shows one the full topography of the city and the important buildings like the Ortokoy mosque, the Topikapi palace and museum and the Cruise terminal for the city, areas one may find difficult to visit on a short stay..

Eating and dining options are usually specific to the individuals but there are a few places that I would like to mention which were very good and they are as follows….. Seven Hills restaurant for a traditional turkish breakfast.., located in the Sultanmet area with fabulous views of the Bosporus, the Ali Okabasi ( Karakoy) for the complete turkish food experience ,the Banyan, a michelin recommended eatery for the asian food next to Ortokoy mosque and Pizzeria Pera for the home styled Italian cuisine located in a quiet corner at Istklal street. There is ofcourse another famous eatery ‘Pandeli’ located in the Spice Bazar… expensive but an experience nonetheless.

My turkish table!

Family holidays are always fun inspite of the little disagreements… a little sulk but definitely memorable. This holiday turned out no different…We now move to ‘Capedoccia’ known for a different terrain, cave hotels and… ‘ Hot Air Balloons’… More in the next instalment. Meanwhile have a good weekend..!!

Relative Happiness… something to strive for..

Happiness is relative…!

We live in a world of duality is a fact which one starts to accept as we understand the concept of there being one Universal soul … or Divinity or the ‘Brahman’. One also starts to understand the dual illusory world one creates for oneself through the operation of our mind, our brain, the sense organs … the knowledge one accumulates.. even giving ourselves an identity or in other words …’the Ego’. The spiritual path also tells one that perhaps living in duality and not understanding it could be the major source of our unhappiness. While we may know this, one also knows that there is no physical way to reverse this duality … It is perpetual unless one understands the power of our thoughts and the manipulation by the mind fueled by our senses. So then one is in a quandary … how does one live … , be happy and also progress towards a Karma balance.. for an eventual salvation….!

No easy answers here..! We do know that our ‘thoughts’ are the primary source for perpetuating our duality ..and we get millions of them every minute… So can we regulate how we direct our thoughts at the inception itself?Perhaps.., but since they are numerous, it may not be possible first to understand, then to segregate and finally to decide what thoughts we want…or what we want to discard. Can we reduce the volume of our thoughts…so that we can have more of an oversight..? All feasible answers but difficult to monitor as well as implement, though with a little insight one can determine the direction or in other words our intent… which is also significant! So if we cannot tap the origin of the flow, what are options of firstly understanding the duality and then effectively dealing with it .. for greater the distance between the two the more our..unhappiness index?

Life is complex …isn’t it? Understanding it is also difficult … not to ask of the possible solutions, which again could have many versions… Therefore the answer also has to be relative and not an absolute.. If one can achieve ‘Relative Happiness’ … one should be able to make do..isn’t it? But what is this exactly… in a world full of absolutes..in world which differentiates only what one can see and what one cannot..? Is it being there but yet not being there? It’s difficult but an important part of the puzzle.. and the answer could lie in a combination or collective understanding of actions rather than one.. Let’s attempt to find an answer…

We already know that one cannot restrict the volume or for that matter the quality of our thoughts … but if one can impose an ‘Intent’ rider to those thoughts one can perhaps give some direction to those thoughts. The second action … to my mind is the power to ‘Accept’ the direction as well as the consequences of our actions. With clearly laid down intent and the acceptance of one’s actions, will hopefully take away attention from thoughts as well as consequent actions which border on ‘Expectation’ which our mind conjures up so often. Full happiness is a myth… but relative happiness can be within your grasp… It’s not very easy to write on these concepts and sometimes it takes …many versions for one to be right. However, my writing may be.. ‘relative’ to the actual truth but have belief that I am not far away..!!

An enchanting Kumaon….and Jim Corbett National Park

Kosi river…

Kosi River

Breakfast amongst nature..!

Safari ….

Taj… waterfront!

Taj ..the property!

Taj.. the property

It’s a place I’ve come after a number of years…and even though it has been touched by development over the years, it still retains its character. Light chilly breeze with bright sunshine which starts to become cold in the evenings…is relatively normal for this time of the year. Coupled with the proximity of the river, the dense jungle … wild life, it’s perhaps an ideal place for a little retreat. Yes … am in the Kumaon region, the home to the Bengal tiger, Asian Elephant, spotted deer as well as the one horn rhinoceros and also home to the Jim Corbett National Park. One of the thirteen protected parks, was earlier known as the Hailey’s National Park till its name was changed to Jim Corbett after a renowned naturalist of the said name. Am here for a destination wedding, which today is one of the key proponents for travel besides being a strong pillar of the local economy…

A little bit about the Kumaon region. Snuggled in the foothills of the majestic Himalayas, Kumaon is located in Uttarakhand, the northern hill province of India. It spans over eastern half of the state and is bounded on the north by Tibet,on the east by Nepal, on the south by the state of Uttar Pradesh and on the west by Garhwal. Key cities include Almora, Nainital, Pithorgarh, Haldwani and Kashipur. Has a bit of history having being ruled by Katyuri and Chand dynasties and being a key part of the 1857 revolution which really put the seed of independence from the British rule. Leaving the credentials as well as history to one side … it’s a wonderful terrain of mountains, tall bush, lakes as well as rivers and a host of wild life with the Bengal tiger as well as the Asian Elephant besides Spotted Deer and other mammal species to be seen. Makes for an ideal short vacation or a weekend visit.. The wedding spectacle in fact distracts from the other sights on offer..

Kumaon, is blessed with many beautiful places,each with its own characteristics and ideal weather at this time of the year- being pleasantly cold in the night though sunny in the morning as well as afternoon. So really an ideal time to be next to a jungle and venture out for a Safari in the Park…though whether one sees the Tiger, still the star attraction,and depends on a whole lot of luck … However there is other wild life like the Elephants, two or three varieties of deer, the fox, the wild boar, one horn rhinoceros…again if you are lucky and a number of bird species. There are guided tours ( in open jeeps) across eight zones of roughly 25 sq km’s each for the Safari and one has to book in advance. The best is however if one can book to stay in the forrest …at a place called ‘Dhikala Forrest Lodge’ where one has the best chance for all kinds of wild life including the Tiger. The Corbett park where we are at present is well known for its man eating Tigers.. immortalised in a book called ‘Man-Eaters of Kumaon’ by Jim Corbett on whose name this national park is now known. Our foray into the jungle was interesting but ..no Tiger!, though we had a fleeting view of a family of elephants, spotted a whole lot of deer..predominantly spotted along with the other varieties.

Jim Corbett National Park has always been a fascinating tourist destination primarily due to its proximity to wild life and the adventure potential, though now with the fabulous properties the lure has been enhanced and it has become a premium wedding destination…Its however, relatively more accessible to Delhi, UP and Uttarakhand. For people further north or East or West of India its a difficult trek unless u can land at Barielly which is three hours away. My earlier visit we had stayed at place called Ram Ganga Resorts which was at a little height and again on the banks of the river. We stayed in makeshift but well attended tents with a strict warning not to open the flaps after 8pm due to the wondering wild life. It was not a luxurious place but rather where one enjoyed adventure.

This time however it was different…as we stayed at the Taj Corbett Resort and Spa, a five star property located at Garjia Dhikuli Ramnagar main road, very near to the three big jungle zones as we were here for a big fat Indian wedding. Its a massive property with individual cottages.., and some premium staying places overlooking the Kosi river. Its restaurant Tree Tops has a multilevel open sitting in the open besides the indoor space which overlooks the river. It also has view of …the garden and walking tracks on the banks of the river. A place for somebody with my fancy preferring a nice book and endless cups of coffee! The wedding function with the light Hawaiian decor was also held here and was outstanding as was the wedding feast with a substantial as well as tasty spread. The property is equipped with all modern facilities and the Taj hospitality made it very special. While Corbett is not short of good places, this property is special…its vibe just envelops you…must say a very pleasant stay for a few days.

Short breaks are always good specially when they are in good weather, allow one to experience the diverse beauty of our country and take one’s mind away from the normal humdrum that one experiences everyday. I would even avoid the Safari jaunt just to enjoy the serenity of the place and… being one with yourselves in heavenly weather. However if u are the type who requires a lot of activity then perhaps this place .. may not be ideal as it can get quiet.. with only animals for company. Have a good weekend…

Time…is transitory, shouldn’t happiness be treated the same!

Happiness is not simple ….and it does change!

Life is never straight forward as we all learn over time….. Sometimes it grinds one to the ground where one is driven to think that nothing is good and all thoughts as well as the resultant actions take one further into the spiralling downward path. The reasons could be many… it could be downturns in earnings or business, a debilitating turn for your or near one’s health, a relationship issue or a problem which seems unsolvable at the time, the result seeming to be …a loss of faith in the ability to manage life in a more harmonious manner. At other times … it puts one on a highway of success… where whatever way one acts or behaves, life takes one to the pinnacle of happiness ( if there is such a state ). Whether it’s one’s job, financial security, marital compatibility or a success on the turn of dice..it is all yours for the asking! Nothing it seems can go wrong …and it seems true from the experience and events that make one feel like that. So a question… have you experienced this see saw of life..? If not then perhaps …you are one of the blessed souls that inherit this world..

The biggest influence in our lives is ‘time’ ….which is transient as we all know and it’s the ephemeral quality of time one cannot hold onto… It always passes…. If we hold that as true then why would one not understand that time whether bad or good will change! We in good times, do not want it to change … while in bad times the wait for change seems endless! Not only the wait but there is a renewed intensity to know why things are not working or what one can do to change our situation.. We in fact base our positive or negetive aspects of life on the transient … ‘time’ which is sometimes called our happiness index.. a rather strange measure for happiness ( if one has understood it ) which reinforces its fluidity, for if the base is transient then ‘Happiness’ as an end requirement too is subject to change..and therefore the futility of that search for a perfect fixed formula for happiness we strive for…

The only way is to look for a state where the positives and the negatives balance … or what one would call as a state of ‘ Happylessness’ as my spiritual mentor puts it. However to get there too one needs some tools … both when the times are good and also when the same challenge you. In times when the going is good, one needs to display humility as well as gratitude as it’s a turn not entirely due to one’s persona ( which is illusory) or only Karma as planetary positions also do play a part when manifestation of this good fortune takes place. On the other side if the times are challenging then too, one needs to ‘Accept’ and have Patience as well as ‘Belief’ with respect to the transitory nature and an understanding that … this too will pass. These qualities or actions to my mind are the only way one can translate one’s life into a journey which is tolerable as well as pleasurable as much as it can be… the true meaning of ‘Happiness’ or ‘Happylessness’ as one may want to call it..!

Sometimes when the going gets tough, one needs this reminder … and that the result is within our control. Have a good weekend and happy reading..!

And…its 2024! But is it ..a new dawn?

Is this new or an illusion….??

The sun in all its splendour slips into the shadows ..quietly having completed another cycle of 12 months though not without the evening of noise and revelry we have accepted as a defacto ritual that one performs ..either as send away gift or in anticipation of new tidings..!The following morning the sun shows up again in all its splendour …what we then celebrate as the new dawn ….something we do everyday of our life..so what’s changed and why is this dawn different from the other one’s? In the real essence, nothing has changed …though if one were to look at through prism of the mind, lot of change..for instance,we have completed the year 2023 and now entering 2024, we are a year older, we have an additional year of experience, we have recollections of things done well in the past and we have hopes and aspirations which we feel will translate into facts as we look to the year 2024 perhaps! Unfortunately that is the dilemma most human beings live with, a dilemma between reality and perceived reality or an illusion, a dilemma of duality … which is real provided we learn to recognise it.. What better time than the perceived beginning of a new year to discuss the same … or is it excersising the mind too much though it plays a major role in this duality..!

Our ancient Hindu philosophy, Vedanta propagates that there is only one reality…and it is called Brahman. Brahman is a metaphysical concept of referring to the ultimate unchanging reality, that is uncreated, eternal, infinite, transcendent, the cause, the foundation, the source and the goal of all existence. One can also refer to it as God, Universal Soul or Divinity or Conciousness or simply the Creator.. Part of that reality also exists within each human being and is the individual soul or Jeev Atman.. However while the universal soul or pure conciousness does not change, the individual soul does get coloured through thoughts as well as the operation of the mind creating another reality one can call the Reflected Conciousness. It helps us with information from our sense organs in setting up for us our individual identity, in other words our ‘Ego’ which helps us deal with the physical world… so the duality of existence is established in essence as soon as the soul enters the physical body. Our measuring pegs of existence specially time eg the minutes, days and years too are a result of the mind and reflected conciousness. Assuming this reality to be a fact what are we celebrating today … for nothing has .. ‘Changed’… and what has, was perhaps an illusion…

Therefore…stepping back into my dual existence let me wish that the New Year 2024 … brings the best of health, happiness as well as prosperity to your lives but with an important rider that… one recognises, accepts and acts knowing that our salvation .. is the path to divinity within us for that is the truth irrespective of what the illusion leads us to believe…

Our perceptions within the reflected conciousness may not change for ‘Maya’ …the key operative for the illusion is virtually permanent along with duality of our existence, and the only route availiable to go back to the Pure conciousness or Divinty is to ..a) recognise this duality and ..b) think as well as act as if one understands about this illusion.

This is my first article for this year and I chose a philosophical/ spiritual topic to kick start the year…the other mundane expressions on topics like music travel, hospitality and some more will follow …but this is the truth..which one must understand! Have a nice week..!

Change…experiencing and living with it in present day India..

Never easy ….but definite!

Change as we all know as well as recognise is the only constant in life. While change is always welcome sometimes the pace at which it happens… makes one not only ponder but also reflect on the kind of change. Some of us in India, born in the decade just before the partition or after the same have probably witnessed more change than some others in the world. One was either awakening to the idea of the new and free India in what our first prime minister …described as ‘tryst with destiny’ or was born in Independent India to help not only redeem but manifest that pledge for free as well as fair society. We did that with a new constitution, democratic way of governance and equality of speech as well as religion enshrined therein…. A significant change no doubt, but what we have witnessed thereafter in the last seven decades having built on that foundation is far more that we could have imagined… It’s been a journey and it continues to be a little bumpy…,perhaps a little introspection would help as how we could have managed this journey better …if not the destination for that more often than not is decided..!

It has been a period of continuous change, some which has massively benefited, some not so beneficial and … the third category .. the change which was needed but did not happen. There were two visibly massive changes which one can recount… which have contributed to what we see as present day India from the land of mystics and snake charmers to a progressive society which is stable, skilled and can compete with the best in the world. The first was the constitution enabled focus on equality in status as well as opportunity for all… and massive focus on institutions and education. This one decision, though it took many years to manifest, is perhaps one of the most noteworthy enablers of modern India society. It was and continues to be the most effective way to fight illiteracy, caste ridden prejudices and backwardness. Equality through education quota and job quotas though criticised today was perhaps the only way to mainstream knowledge rather than it being a preserve of a few. More importantly millions (ours being the problem of plenty ) needed to become and became contributors to our GDP … which goes a long way in turning our demographics into our most important asset..! Our big focus on education, more importantly science opened the country for the next most important change which was the focus on ‘Services’ as against manufacturing which required capital..which was a constraint. Technology and services supporting the same revolutionised the work profile of our country taking us to be the top providers of such services across the world and taking our professionals into top echelons of Fortune 500 companies. Both these changes are largely responsible for our status as well as our regard in the comity of nations today.

The socio economic change too have been of considerable magnitude though not too sure whether they have been as beneficial as some of the changes I described earlier to our young nation and as individuals. Society has certainly become more open as well as inclusive …in no small measure due to multicultural influence, better communication and better education. Technology again has played a part in this change with making mobile telephony and the power of internet the fulcrum of our lives. Access to information and content across the world has changed the way we live, speak and…behave, perhaps not always to our liking. Our fears,our cloistered secrets, whether they are sexual or otherwise are now being discussed in public …and becoming mainstream. Have watched a recent series called “Made in Heaven” on Amazon Prime recently, a fabulously mounted and directed show which really depicts the change we have come through… the showcasing of wealth, the relationships…gay or otherwise, the backwardness as well as prejudices in society despite wealth as well as education… in other words a society still reconciling its past with a future which is more of western import than Indian. Such content would have been charged as akin to blasphemy not very long ago….These changes though are benefitting us deal with our prejudices which may have been hidden as well as present always and hopefully to become better as a society.

While the change has been substantial there are some changes that one wanted to see… but either have not taken place or not in the measure one would have wanted. India is still a very caste driven society…and despite our increasing education those caste discriminations are alive. Lower castes are still not considered fit enough to eat or drink together or provide equal privileges in many areas. This is not the 21st century India we had envisaged. The other major change we have still to see is the measures to contain rampant corruption in the society …. Not that one has not tried but with the massive growth in all aspects of the economy this measure has been left neglected to a large extent. We do however pay a lot of lip service to the problem but very little to resolve…perhaps intentionally but one can leave this discussion for another time..

Change is never easy but it happens all the time whether we like it or not.. some of it can be predicted but most just happens. Living therefore with change is an art…some which one anticipates and the balance one adjusts to or accepts…Have a lovely weekend..

Exploring the truth of creation…in search of happiness

Questions never end …!

Our curiosity towards the real essence of life as we experience the same has never abated and perhaps never will … for every question that one seems to answer, there are many where we do not have information. The insatiable appetite for information is a result of us seeking the elixir which gives happiness and takes us away from pain…materialistic pursuits beyond a point do not help and thereafter one explores other ways including lure to give up all worldly pleasures or to explore other avenues like spirituality for the answers.. but this again has riders.., the search therefore is unending and at some point starts to question … who we are and what is the real truth if any… which could lead us to the eventual state of happiness and peace..! I had written a piece earlier in 2022 called “Search through illusion…for the real essence of life” where I did explore some concepts on creation alongwith the concept of illusion in life …..however some questions still remained and continue. This article also explores the same with some additional concepts like Duality and NonDuality …to see how we can link them to one’s objective of finding happiness or peace. Let me start by recounting some of the things what I said in that article…

Out of the many theories or writings on creation of human life perhaps ‘Vedanta,’ one of the treatise on philosophy of Hinduism, does provide a hypothetical concept to understand the same….Vedanta propagates that there is only one reality…and it is called Brahman. Brahman is a metaphysical concept of referring to the ultimate unchanging reality, that is uncreated, eternal, infinite, transcendent, the cause, the foundation, the source and the goal of all existence. One can also refer to it as God, Universal Soul or Divinity or simply the Creator.. As I said earlier there is still a debate as how creation took place but ….Brahman or the boundless energy as per the treatise did create an illusion of movement, a manifestation of time and space where the physical universe made an appearance. In the creation process it also created multiple connected energies which made an appearance as mind – body organisms which are distinct yet under the same perception, with a part of that energy resting in them … as Atman and an awareness which said ‘I am an individual’. It’s then through the mind, the thoughts that pass continuously through it and the knowledge or information accessed through the five senses that these mind body organisms create a unique perceived identity for the individual … which is also known as Ego. It’s the Ego and the mind which creates as well as develops that illusory identity which then is seen as distinct from the source or Brahman…and it is that moment where one steps into the world of duality … for we then start to live with duality of the universal soul which is always unchanged and the illusory created self which takes the the identity developed through the machinations of the mind. The duality once created cannot be changed or reversed and is probably perpetual for the thoughts as well as the mind do not stop. The greater the distance between the original soul and the illusory identity, more the suffering is the theory unless one can bring them closer or find another theory…

Key realisation though, is that we live our lives engulfed in duality… not wrong, for all our sources of information, knowledge which we perceive or assimilate through our sense organs helps develop to this illusion…. Also the distance between our illusory identity is likely to increase rather than diminish and perhaps this is also one of the key reasons which contributes to our unhappiness or lack of peace. There is then a dilemma which needs to be recognised… for duality may be perpetual and therefore also the separation..! Perhaps this is also the moment in our spiritual journey where one needs to understand the concept of Non-Duality (again through the Advaitha Hindu philosophy ) whose basic tenets are that firstly ..Everything is one, secondly that there is no separate self and finally ‘This is it’ …the final feature that the present that one is experiencing is the final destination and not some new magical destination of the future.If Non Duality is the truth then the Brahman and the Atman is the same and all the actions and the subsequent separation is a figment of imagination by the mind just like the illusory entity it creates. Quite the opposite of what we have discussed. Confusing….isn’t it??

The real learning that one can draw from the above discussion or hypothesis perhaps is not a simple mantra … for a peaceful and a happy life but a series of probable truths around which one can structure one’s life. These probable truths are-

1. There is a single, unchanging reality behind creation and one can call it Brahman or the Source or the Divinity…

2. Understand that everything is one and interconnected…,the essential principle of Non-Duality but for that understanding to happen one needs to experience as well as define Duality. Non Duality though abstract needs to be part of our acceptance when one looks at it as part of spiritual awareness even though one continues to live as well as act in a world engulfed with duality.

3. Seeking …even though it is an essential feature of one’s dualistic existence needs to be replaced with acceptance and faith.

The best conclusion one can draw is that life like its creation is a paradox and at times a conflicting one …Accept it…peace will hopefully follow! Have a lovely week and happy reading ….

Rajasthan …an everlasting confluence of history and architectural heritage ..Part 2

Ranakpur Jain Temple…!

Udaipur City Palace…!

Rajasthan not only depicts its tale of sacrifice as well as valour through its Forts but also through its customs, history of its ruling elite, its way of living and also through its religious beliefs. Temples have been part and parcel of Indian history and in many ways integral to the Indian polity as well as consciousness for ever. Religions like Jainism and Buddhism are born in India. Rajasthan has endearing examples of faith in the form of temples of a number of faiths whether its Islam, Hindu or for that matter Jainism and Buddhism. Temples for all faiths did attract a lot of investment in the past…perhaps as a form of legacy left for future generations. A trip to this state is not complete if one does not go visit such centres for the divine…which have lasted for centuries and are still relevant as a place of worship as well as are architecturally feted for their exquisite workmanship. So the next stop was the Temples and then to round off the trip with a visit to the magnificent city of Udaipur…not only the capital of Mewar (the largest region of Rajasthan) but also the City of Lakes and Palaces set against the background of the Aravalli range and the waters of the Lakes.

Intricate Marble carvings..!

Intricate marble carvings!

Two world famous Jain temples … one at Ranakpur which is located at two hour distance from Udaipur and the other at Mount Abu, the only hill station in Rajasthan,a little more in distance but accessible. In fact it forms a bit of a triangle between Kumbhalgarh, Ranakpur and Mount Abu though equidistant from Udaipur. Both the temples … the one at Ranakpur and Dilwara Temples at Mount Abu are 700 to 1000 years old ( 14 th / 15 th century) respectively. The Ranakpur temple located in district Pali is perhaps one of the largest,the holiest and most important temple of the Jain culture. It was built in the 14th/15th century by a Jain devotee Darna Shah but under the patronage of the Rajput king Rana Kumbha of the Sisodia clan. Also known as the Chaturmukha Temple it is dedicated to their Lord Adinath the first Tirthankar and their main deity. It gets its name from the idol placed here which has four faces, facing four directions. Its also famous for another carved idol of Parsavanatha in one piece marble with 1008 snake heads covering his head and with numerous tails. Its a symphony in white marble with intricate marble carvings on the domed ceiling and on almost 1400 pillars and columns. The intricate carvings all are a sight to behold and its safe to mention that its a national treasure not to be missed. The idols of the balance 25 Tirthankars are placed around the main temple which is fairly large covering almost 50000sq feet. The other Jain temple also known as the Dilwara temples, and I say temples because they are a group of five temples located at Mount Abu, the only hill station of Rajasthan are equally well regarded. Here too the construct is in white marble though the vintage is a few hundred years older than Ranakpur. Aesthetically both are similar in look and feel though the carvings are more in number and more intricate at Ranakpur. Again there is the main idol of Lord Adinath and surrounded by idols of the other Tirthankars. Both the temples are a must visit and would qualify as one among the top ancient temples of the country.

The dinner at Amberai at Lake Pichola..!

Udaipur City…from the Palace!

Lake Palace …hotel!

Rajasthan, while its valour and the fighting ability was uniform across the whole state, each of the regions do have their unique attributes due perhaps to the fact that they were not uniformly ruled under one dispensation. There were a number of different principalities which came together to form Rajasthan and the difference in topography, architecture as well as customs is still reflected in the different regions. Udaipur, perhaps the second largest district and city in the state was once the capital of Mewar, one of the largest as well as powerful regions of Rajasthan. Has been ruled by the Sisodia clan of Rajasthan for centuries and has a long lineage of successful kings and that lineage continues till today.. Udaipur is nearer to Gujarat, a little further from the north almost midway between Delhi and Mumbai. That can also explain a little different customs profile that is on display. It is encompassed by seven(7) lakes and is sometimes dubbed as the “Venice of the East”. It is adorned with Royal Palaces on the banks of the lake ( Lake Pichola being the most well known) . The City Palace is on the banks of the lake and the Lake Palace which is now a Luxury hotel, within that lake. The city does not get much rain but it is also not searing hot like in other parts of the state. Besides being the Venice of the East it was also considered the most romantic spot in the subcontinent. The city is the most prized venue for all Indian weddings as it make one feel like a Maharaja …even though if it is only for a short while. The bazaars around the main Palace and Lake Pichhola are a treasure trove of ethinic Rajasthani articles as well as clothes. A tour of the City Palace with its spectacular views of the city and the carefully preserved artifacts is very interesting and the view of the Lake Palace.. since one cannot go there as the same is now run as a luxury hotel, to die for. The restaurant at the base of the City Palace serves a lovely coffee … with the view of the palace. The second must do is a dinner at the Ambarai lake view restaurant … not very far from the Palace with a view to die for and a dinner to remember.. The dinner reservations here , however, need to be booked much in advance.

Being a major tourist centre it is serviced by all kinds of hotels…from the extremely expensive to the more reasonable ones. Besides Lake Palace by the Taj, there is the Leela Palace, the Udaivilas by the Oberoi … and other five stars a little away from the lake. If one is a little adventurous and not wedded to five star food… do try the local stalls next to the lake… outstanding local flavours but would require Indian immunity..! Rajasthan never ceases to amaze… with the kind of diversity it showcases and not to forget it’s colourful disposition..( literally) in a harsh topography. A trip not easily forgotten … Hope you enjoy this piece … along with a rainy weekend!