Archives for posts with tag: #travel

Türkiye as a destination is many things …rolled into one… an intricate tapestry of beautiful terrain, monuments, history of different religions as well as ideology and now as a strong independant nation with a growing economy. As a visitor perhaps a best place to enjoy the sense of Europe with eastern sensibilities … not a minor feat in this age of exclusivity…. Time constraints allowed us only one other location in Türkiye besides Istanbul ….and there was complete consensus on .. ‘Cappadocia’…

Cappadocia, is an ancient district in east-central Anatolia, situated on the rugged plateau north of the Taurus Mountains, in the centre of present-day Turkey, a short flight from Istanbul. Cappadocia’s landscape includes dramatic expanses of soft volcanic rock, shaped by erosion into towers, cones, valleys, and caves. Rock-cut churches and underground tunnel complexes from the Byzantine and Islamic eras are scattered throughout the countryside. The unique terrain created by volcanic activity has resulted in caves, mushroom chimneys and creation of multiple underground spaces where people lived during strife.. an astonishing 35 or so underground cities. An absolute wonder and recognised by UNESCO as one of the heritage cities of the world.. The caves are present day living spaces, perhaps one of the few in the world… The other speciality of this city is the ‘Hot Air Balloons’..100’s of which rise everyday twice a day weather permitting to create a setting and sight unparalleled in the world. Its vast plateau along with its terrain is perfect for this adventure activity… Cappadocia is an hours flight from Istanbul and it has a small airport at Nevshir not very far from its main city Goreme. Goreme is also part of the Goreme National Park which boasts of the mushroom chimney formations.. So off we go to what should be the most interesting part of this trip…

The heritage landscape..!
Hot air Balloons among the ..landscape!
Street in Gerome..!
A small trek along the river.. to an old 12 th century church..

We stayed in a small family run cave hotel … few rooms with a terrace which had the view of mushroom chimneys and the early morning view of hot air balloons taking of…. Most of these establishments have that facility. Large comfortable rooms within the caves but because of the structure, not many rooms but some with a usable courtyard. The first day was basically to discover the topography and the lay of the land and to discover the surroundings..

The second day was the highlight starting with our Hot Air Balloon flight … starting early morning at 5 am though the actual flight was at 7 am… It’s a group flight and we booked the one with four baskets with 5 people each.. We can have more people in some of the larger baskets..They pick u up, take u to the flight venue… load u in the designated baskets… and then allow u to enjoy a most fascinating ride among or over the clouds. The pilot also descends and takes the balloon right next to the famed mushroom chimneys allowing you to experience the terrain in close quarters plus the exhilaration of flying .. and not in cockpits or enclosed.. to say the experience in one word… ‘Wow!!’ After landing they give you something to eat as well as drink, a customary photograph ….and a certificate! This is virtually a total of 4 hours or so from the time they pick u and drop u back to the Hotel … in time for breakfast with a whole day still left for other … sightseeing. Most of the the hotels serve a full Turkish breakfast along with unlimited turkish tea. We took a half day private tour thereafter which took us around the Goreme National Park … to capital city of the region Utchisar … where the cave palace is there and then to the Underground city a few miles away. The Underground city is a merange of interconnected caves a few meters down, a lot of historical importance but a little underwhelming ( at least for me)… However if u suffer from claustrophobia then not a place to be.. However the best part of the tour was a visit to a place … to visit a 12 th century church, a short trek along the canal/river at a little height. Its base also had some decent restaurants on the canal/river where we could enjoy a meal before the trek…

The Hot Air Balloon ride and the sightseeing tour thereafter was wonderful but tiring… Time in the evening was to explore the Gerome town, rest in the beautiful surroundings of the cave hotel and then… go for a lovely meal in one of the terrace restaurants for dinner. Some of the larger establishments turn their terraces into viewing galleries for the balloon flight and to roof top restaurants at night … Since it was a little cold… a full bonfire is an added bonus is also part of the experience . ‘Setan’ in Hotel Sultan Cave Suites was one such rooftop bar with turkish cuisine.. but one cannot miss the only chinese cuisine restaurant in Gerome- ‘One China’. It’s Michelin quality modern chinese cuisine… perhaps better than many big cities… we had lunch there on the first day as part of our discovery. The town however is small with very few shops .. and basic!

Cappadocia does not require more than a couple of days..We were back to Istanbul the next day for our onward journey back. Türkiye, however, does not end with these two places but has many more… from pretty towns to historical places and to beaches… but perhaps another time .. hopefully soon! If u are visiting Türkiye then please do not exclude ‘Cappadocia’.. it’s outstanding ! Have a good weekend and happy reading….

Kosi river…
Kosi River
Breakfast amongst nature..!
Safari ….
Taj… waterfront!
Taj ..the property!
Taj.. the property

It’s a place I’ve come after a number of years…and even though it has been touched by development over the years, it still retains its character. Light chilly breeze with bright sunshine which starts to become cold in the evenings…is relatively normal for this time of the year. Coupled with the proximity of the river, the dense jungle … wild life, it’s perhaps an ideal place for a little retreat. Yes … am in the Kumaon region, the home to the Bengal tiger, Asian Elephant, spotted deer as well as the one horn rhinoceros and also home to the Jim Corbett National Park. One of the thirteen protected parks, was earlier known as the Hailey’s National Park till its name was changed to Jim Corbett after a renowned naturalist of the said name. Am here for a destination wedding, which today is one of the key proponents for travel besides being a strong pillar of the local economy…

A little bit about the Kumaon region. Snuggled in the foothills of the majestic Himalayas, Kumaon is located in Uttarakhand, the northern hill province of India. It spans over eastern half of the state and is bounded on the north by Tibet,on the east by Nepal, on the south by the state of Uttar Pradesh and on the west by Garhwal. Key cities include Almora, Nainital, Pithorgarh, Haldwani and Kashipur. Has a bit of history having being ruled by Katyuri and Chand dynasties and being a key part of the 1857 revolution which really put the seed of independence from the British rule. Leaving the credentials as well as history to one side … it’s a wonderful terrain of mountains, tall bush, lakes as well as rivers and a host of wild life with the Bengal tiger as well as the Asian Elephant besides Spotted Deer and other mammal species to be seen. Makes for an ideal short vacation or a weekend visit.. The wedding spectacle in fact distracts from the other sights on offer..

Kumaon, is blessed with many beautiful places,each with its own characteristics and ideal weather at this time of the year- being pleasantly cold in the night though sunny in the morning as well as afternoon. So really an ideal time to be next to a jungle and venture out for a Safari in the Park…though whether one sees the Tiger, still the star attraction,and depends on a whole lot of luck … However there is other wild life like the Elephants, two or three varieties of deer, the fox, the wild boar, one horn rhinoceros…again if you are lucky and a number of bird species. There are guided tours ( in open jeeps) across eight zones of roughly 25 sq km’s each for the Safari and one has to book in advance. The best is however if one can book to stay in the forrest …at a place called ‘Dhikala Forrest Lodge’ where one has the best chance for all kinds of wild life including the Tiger. The Corbett park where we are at present is well known for its man eating Tigers.. immortalised in a book called ‘Man-Eaters of Kumaon’ by Jim Corbett on whose name this national park is now known. Our foray into the jungle was interesting but ..no Tiger!, though we had a fleeting view of a family of elephants, spotted a whole lot of deer..predominantly spotted along with the other varieties.

Jim Corbett National Park has always been a fascinating tourist destination primarily due to its proximity to wild life and the adventure potential, though now with the fabulous properties the lure has been enhanced and it has become a premium wedding destination…Its however, relatively more accessible to Delhi, UP and Uttarakhand. For people further north or East or West of India its a difficult trek unless u can land at Barielly which is three hours away. My earlier visit we had stayed at place called Ram Ganga Resorts which was at a little height and again on the banks of the river. We stayed in makeshift but well attended tents with a strict warning not to open the flaps after 8pm due to the wondering wild life. It was not a luxurious place but rather where one enjoyed adventure.

This time however it was different…as we stayed at the Taj Corbett Resort and Spa, a five star property located at Garjia Dhikuli Ramnagar main road, very near to the three big jungle zones as we were here for a big fat Indian wedding. Its a massive property with individual cottages.., and some premium staying places overlooking the Kosi river. Its restaurant Tree Tops has a multilevel open sitting in the open besides the indoor space which overlooks the river. It also has view of …the garden and walking tracks on the banks of the river. A place for somebody with my fancy preferring a nice book and endless cups of coffee! The wedding function with the light Hawaiian decor was also held here and was outstanding as was the wedding feast with a substantial as well as tasty spread. The property is equipped with all modern facilities and the Taj hospitality made it very special. While Corbett is not short of good places, this property is special…its vibe just envelops you…must say a very pleasant stay for a few days.

Short breaks are always good specially when they are in good weather, allow one to experience the diverse beauty of our country and take one’s mind away from the normal humdrum that one experiences everyday. I would even avoid the Safari jaunt just to enjoy the serenity of the place and… being one with yourselves in heavenly weather. However if u are the type who requires a lot of activity then perhaps this place .. may not be ideal as it can get quiet.. with only animals for company. Have a good weekend…

Rajputana or the present day Rajasthan is roughly 10% of the total size of India, largest state in terms of area but much lower down in the amount of population. Its rough in terms of terrain with a large part being encompassed by the Thar desert with extreme temperature being severely hot in summers specially so during the day and then cool in the winters and on most nights. Its significance of being one of the earlier civilisations with parts of the state being dated back to the Vedic and Indus Valley civilisation is incomparable to similar locations in the subcontinent. Being a combination of many princely states in its present formation, its history also is a milieu of different way of life for each of these communities in the past….This is made inherently more colourful by the liberal use of colour in their attire which is an interesting contrast to dry and rough countryside which one experiences. It is this paradox along with the obsession with the royalty both in terms of living practices as well as monuments which makes this state stand out as must visit tourist destination to have a glimpse of India gone by..!

The essence of colour ..in everyday life!

Not a stranger to this place…but the areas visited were limited to Jaipur, Ajmer and a few other locations. Earlier this year in the winter decided to spend a few days around Udaipur …also known as the City of Lakes. Udaipur represents the largest region of Rajasthan .. which is Mewar. It is perhaps the shining example of Rajput chivalry, their way of life and is adorned with Palaces around lakes ( seven of them with Lake Pichola being the largest). The rulers of these principalities now are part of the Union of India but their way of life along with the grandeur through the Palaces they maintain, their customs and elements of their valour are on full display in these monuments even to this present day. This trip was a short trip and we started with Kumbhalgarh fort then to the ancient Jain temples both Ranakpur as well as Dilwara ( MtAbu) and finally to the city of Udaipur and the palaces in particular the City Palace as well as the Lake Palace ….

The majestic Kumbhalgarh fort
The lit up Fort….!
A fabulous experience…!
The Shiva Temple..!
The Great Wall…

Kumbhalgarh ( or the Kumbhal Fort) is at a distance of 80 km from Udaipur … It is one of the largest forts in India more specifically the second largest after Chittorgarh fort. It is also called the Great Wall of India having a wall which is 35 km long next only to the Great Wall of China. It is also one of UNESCO declared heritage site. Built by erstwhile ruler Rana Kumbha in the early 14 th/ 15 th century, it bifurcates Mewar as well as the Marwar region of Rajasthan. It was designed in the era of constant wars as an all encompassing secure destination for Rajput elite with staying quarters for royals as well as troops… and it was designed to be impregnable and for which it has stood its promise till date except on one occasion when the combined army of Mughals breached the same and that too due to scarcity of water. It has a 20 ft wide wall running across the length and breath of the fort .. an astonishing 35 odd km’s of it, a worthy competitor to the Great Wall of China. It’s also historically prominent being the birthplace of Maharana Pratap, an all time great Rajput warrior and ruler. The fort has within its perimeter a few palaces, a number of Jain and other temples, with a famous Neelkanta Mahadev temple standing facing the great fort, since religion was very close to the way of life then as it is now. The fort is at a height and one can see miles of the Aravali range from its premises along with the Great Wall. The tourism department organises a great Sound and Light Show every evening at the fort which takes one back in history and showcases the significance of this place. It’s a beautiful setting in winter with the fort lit up alongwith poignant storytelling of history..

Kumbhalgarh also boasts of a wild life sanctuary around the fort which is home for species like the striped hyena, deer, sloth bear and the Indian Leopard. The place does not boast much of anything else. One has an option of doing a day trip from Udaipur while it also has options for good stay over with properties like the Mahindra Kumbhalgarh and now the new Raddison property.

If you are not invested in this place already then travel with me to the other significant … monuments in Rajasthan which are the ancient and world famous Jain temples, our next destination which I will detail in the next part followed with the visit to the City of Lakes Udaipur along with its fabulous palaces! Enjoy your weekend!

The Blue Mountains…an holiday to savour..!!

It’s end of another eventful year, perhaps a little less dramatic from some of the past year ends but eventful nonetheless.. Year end activity is usually the one of bonhomie, parties, celebrations …and this year follows the one of pre covid periods reminding one of the fact that the revelry is back having turned the tide against the fear of human extinction. No mean feat … and a reasonable reason for a celebration and of course travel! South of India with its green ecology, good travel infrastructure …is always a perennial favourite.So South India was the choice – the Blue Mountains or Nilgiris in popular terminology! The ‘Blue Mountains’ were likely named for the widespread blue Strobilanthes flower ( hope I got that correct) or the smoky haze enveloping the area…Will speak more about the history a little later ..after landing at Coimbatore airport in Tamil Nadu which is the gateway to our holiday…

Holidays specially the year end one’s are not only about seeing new places but also about bonding with friends and family, a little me time in this busy world, a follow up on that unfinished story or book, lazy meal times amidst fabulous views and finally a time to reflect on one’s actions in the the recent past as well as a little plan of how we want the future to unfold… We do not always achieve every ideal that we set out with but vacations are a great tool to shut out the noise for a little while and internalise our thoughts…perhaps for that elusive awakening that one is looking for. The Blue mountains or the Nilgiris are a mountain range at a junction of the Western and Eastern Ghats and bounded by states of Karnataka and Kerala. Nilgiris is a tribal belt, the ancient abode of tribes specially Toda, Kota and Badagas, who still exist but their population are a fraction of the total population residing here.Ootacamund or Ooty and Coonoor are the key cities and that is our destination. However it is no doubt that it is the British which really put these destinations on the India map not only as places of tourist interest but also as quality producers of Tea which finds buyers across the world..

Ooty as well as Coonoor located at a distance of 30 to 40 min car drive from each other have many places of tourist interest either within the cities limits or outside of it… for instance the Doddabeta peak, which is the highest peak on the range, the Ooty lake, the botanical garden, Dolphins nose, the Karnataka garden,old heritage golf clubs and of course the mesmerising view of the layered tea lined estates on the mountain slopes. For the wild life enthusiast, the Nilgiris are host to two wildlife reserves and are host to one of the largest herd of elephants in the region besides the Bison which we had occasion to spot crossing the road. One of the wildlife reserves is the Madhumalai Wildlife Sanctuary bounded by the Bandipur Tiger reserve.…These places are beautiful and if you do happen to be there by all means visit them. However if your vacation is more than a sightseeing trip ….then consider the following which u may find interesting to fulfil some of the other objectives we set out earlier in the article….

A comfortable place to stay, secluded yet accessible, heritage, overlooking the mountains with a private green patch of its own and not crowded… we found one..Danish Villa, located on Sheddon road having an unbelievable ambiance in this age. It’s part of Club Mahindra and unlike its other properties its a haven of class, built in colonial style, not most modern but having a character you come to look for on a holiday… Small property, attentive staff, middling food, enjoyable and was perhaps my ideal for this holiday. Having found an ideal staying place, one view is to spend time in the verandah or the green lawns outside amidst sunshine or the drizzle or experience the fog while looking at the amazing view of the hillsides with perhaps a book or your thoughts for company…., the other being to explore the quaint towns as one takes a break from one’s solo thought process. Good eating places along with the sights was our idea of that exploration except for one exception…. ‘taking a ride on the heritage ‘Toy Train’, which runs from Ooty to Coonoor- an experience of beautiful views,on narrow tracks, rickety interiors and of course the over enthusiasm of the travelling crowd. A famous song was shot on top of the train…and boy the crowd did not let you forget it on the one hour ride… Exceptional whichever way one takes it…but an experience nonetheless!

Culinary experiences are the other highlight of every holiday not only because some of these places are exceptional but also one has the time, patience as well as the enthusiasm to enjoy the same. Both Ooty and Coonoor do not disappoint or they rather excel in such places…. Four places are a must visit, two in Ooty,one in Coonoor and one in between. The first one is called a ‘Le Cafe’ situated within the Littlearth square opp the Collectors office. Lovely casual diner with super Pizza’s, pasta’s healthy drinks, desserts and coffee.. The second is up in the hills called the ‘Kings Cliff’… super views with super tasty food and even better if its cold with bright sunshine! Coonoor however, is not to be left behind as the next place ‘ Cafe Diem’ is there. Situated again on a hill within a private Villa residence with the garden as well as outside areas designed like a Zen abode. Perhaps the best place for vegan, gluten free food as well as sugar free desserts. Fourth is a place situated between Coonoor and Ooty, a restaurant called ‘Culinarium’… try their Pot Pies, high tea with pastries and one truly starts believing in the magic of the hills…

However, if five star’s are your calling, Taj Savoy, still brings that old world charm. An evening around the bonfire at the hotel and a Chinese meal were wonderful. Chocolates are the other Ooty favourite … do not forget to visit ‘Moddy’s if that is something u enjoy.

Holidays are slow to plan as well as start but then one does not want them to get over. I guess all of us have our own stories to tell in this holiday period… a magical time at this time of the year…Wishing all the very best for Christmas and the New Year. May 2023 bring you the best of everything and more of ‘Holidays’!!

Summer always besides the heat quotient in India, connects to travel and vacations. Our country heat map necessitates that schools be closed for few months as the temperatures in some parts can be in the early 40 to 45 degrees Centigrade and normal activity is pretty much disrupted whether it is study, work or play. Kids dominate the scheduling of the break and even when they grow up the summer months and vacations still go together. With more liberal spends, increasing knowledge and ease of travel, the vacations have not been restricted to the Indian shores though through Covid years International activity came to a complete halt. It is restarting now but the activity is nowhere near what it was pre covid. So the focus in the last few years has shifted to discovering the domestic circuits again. Also with communication channels, internet becoming reliable the WFH (Work from home) as an option has really taken off benefiting domestic travel as well as hospitality. So where to this summer..?

Of course being in a cool place in summers is a preference so mountains come to mind, but one also wants the sea, unspoilt green cover or perhaps near a forest, good connectivity, a little history and fabulous staying places. Too much to ask..? Not really as India is well endowed in that respect… though finding the right location as well as the connectivity can be challenge sometimes. For me for some years now Kerala …yes God’s own land, has been the perennial favourite. A prosperous as well as an educated state has really picked up its infrastructure quotient with good connectivity by air, excellent roads, and proactive approach to tourist facilities. It is also the production hub for Spices, rubber, teak, banana, tea as well as coffee and of course the backwaters,forests as well as greenery being breathtaking makes it the real deal. So Kerala it was this time too..!

We have travelled extensively over the years in Kerala ….have been to Kochi, Coorg, Munnar, Alleppey, ashtamudi, and other coastal as well as temple towns in Kerala. Each with its own tapestry, beauty, customs and character, they all have been outstanding leisure locations. This time the destination was a tiny mountain destination of Thekkady in the Idukki district. The nearest airport is either Madurai or Kochi and is well connected to all the big cities in India. Thereafter its taxi or car ride of around 4 hours from Madurai or 5 hours from Kochi but on excellent roads specially the one from Madurai though the one from Kochi is more scenic. Thekkady is located at the edge of Periyar Tiger Reserve or Sanctuary and also therefore at the edge of a thick forrest. The proximity to the forrest, being at a height and also close to a manmade lake within the Periyar range makes for ideal weather, relatively cool in the winter months and presently in the 19 to 25 degrees range with rains. It’s a small town best known for spices, banana, tapioca, the Ayurveda inspired medicine as well as treatment, tea and to some extent coffee. More than 70% of the commercial activity is around these products. It’s biggest tourist pull however,is the Periyar Tiger Reserve and the artificial lake situated with in the range itself. So predictably a surfeit of jungle safari options and boating which to some enthusiasts are the reason d taire to visit this place. The total tiger population of the reserve is 47 spread over 27 sq kilometres which makes a chance sighting of tiger very rare but not impossible. But there are elephants, bison and deer which one does see during the safari trips… perhaps not the experience one may expect in better safari destinations but certainly the lovely ride in the forest as well the anxiety of actually seeing something keeps the interest alive…

Though tourist related places are an attraction, what really pulls you to a place like this is the relative quiet, awesome weather and the resorts built around the typical Kerala architecture with abundant greenery, thatched roofs which bring that Kerala experience to you.. We had the pleasure of visiting ‘Spice Village’ run by Casino Hotels and the Club Mahindra property which was earlier a Taj Hotel. Spice Village is in fact the residence of the first warden of the Periyar Tiger Reserve now converted into a luxury resort. Both designed to bring the forest as well as experience of staying in a safari resort very close to you… along with typical Kerala cuisine. Very different experience from the hill stations in the North which to my mind without being demeaning, are not well kept, are crowded and give you a feeling of being in a bazaar rather than in a naturally cooled, visually superlative place with medicinal benefits. Only one downside though is the limited understanding of language which can be a boon too for sometimes ignorance is bliss..!

Writing about this trip is pure therapy as the discourse whether in the world or in India is toxic at present and certainly does not give you the joy than what this piece gives you. It allows you to wander in your thoughts and recognise the many wonders we have been blessed with… Think Kerala if you are looking for a break… not the party kind but the type which appreciates the environment as well as its bounties, gives you chance to introspect and enjoy the time with close friends or family!

One does not get tired of travel and with time on our hands no better occasion to reminisce about the good times. We took a little break but are back to continue our journey. We made a good start at Hiedelberg and we now travel to the heart of Black Forest in Bavaria. As one travel,one realises that that you are amidst one of the most beautiful places in the world embellished with purity and nature that is a must have experience. It was our first experience of internal travel within Germany, and train specially the regional railway was our prefferd mode of travel. It was awesome and very reasonable too specially if you can take advantage of their family ticket where upto five members can travel together for a whole day with a ticket which was priced at Euro 25 or so.  Onward then…..

Our next stop after Hiedelberg was BadenBaden, also known as the play ground of the rich.It was a short train journey among breathtaking scenery. Baden Baden is a rich town having the Casino as a central point and is also known for its spa as well as Roman baths. The town has a water spring, more like a river tributary, running through it with green forest on either side flanked with large houses as well as estates. One can walk on both sides of the spring among forests for a few kms feeling you have descended in paradise. We again stayed near the heart of the city within walking distance of the main square as well as all the attractions. While the the city was no doubt beautiful, we took a short bus ride ( one hour ride) the next day to a natural lake bounded by mountains and the forest – Lake Mummelsee. It has nothing except a walk around the lake in the woods, a functioning restaurant and some shops for local wares. It was splendid isolation amongst a pristine lake and crisp October weather …which made you part of nature, an experience unlikely to be forgotten! Back in town, if one has a gambling predisposition, one can knock oneself out at the Casino or if you desire a leisurely afternoon, sometime at the Baths with its theurapuetic cures and then the town square would be a good recommendation. 

Lake Mummelsee
Lake Mummelsee

From the lovely and feel rich atmosphere of Baden Baden, our next destination was Lake Titisee ,deeper in the Black Forest area ,more precisely South Black Forest.  It is huge pristine lake, yes another one,but much bigger,very deep and bordered by deep forest,mountains with snow at the higher reaches and abounded with trees in October hues. The lake is bordered at one end with a small town Titisee Nuestadt. A real gem with a few cafes, a bakery, a few shops selling cuckoo clocks ( it’s speciality ), clothes and rowing gear. In normal times the shops and cafes shut at 4.30 or 5pm with a couple open till 6pm for dinner. The only other eating options after that are the small restaurants attached to the staying places. Most of the staying places are on the lake, not very large ones though with the option of the ferry to go to the town. We stayed at one such place, on the lake and with the ferry transport. Most of the inflow at this place is of the daytime tourist who come in for the day specially from Frieberg a prominent town, a 40 min train ride away. Three days spent here made you as close as one can get to imagining heaven.  With snow on the higher reaches of the mountains we spent some time going up to the ski slopes with a nice leisurely lunch at the snowbound cafe. This isolation and nature is the essence of Black Forest area and its heart, memories of which will not go away in a hurry!

Titisee -skislopes
Lake Titisee harbour
Titisee -skislopes


Hopefully these places and occasions will be a reality soon. Meanwhile these rememberances are a manna in these trying times. There are more gems to be seen. Enjoy these as you wait for the next instalment. Enjoy the Independence day weekend and Stay safe!